Visiting Palestine (West Bank) – Ultimate Travel Guide

Palestine is one of the most interesting places not only in the Middle East but in the world.

It has a very unique culture, history, friendly people and delicious food. So, it’s not only about Biblical places.

Based on my experience with and knowledge about Palestine, I’ve written this comprehensive guide for traveling in Palestine.

So, if you asked yourself, what do I need to know about traveling to Palestine, you are in the right place.

From this travel guide, you can learn about everything you need to know to plan your trip to Palestine:

How to get to Palestine, how to travel around Palestine independently, what the checkpoints are like in Palestine, whether it’s safe to travel in Palestine, what it’s like to travel on an occupied land, about the best places to visit in Palestine and so on.

Today, Palestine includes the West Bank and Gaza Strip. However, this guide only focuses on the West Bank as I only traveled there and only that’s where you can travel to as a tourist.

Tourists are not permitted to enter Gaza. Nevertheless, here and there, I’ll mention Gaza as it belongs to Palestine and because it’s interesting to understand how different the two regions are from a travel perspective.

I made Instagram stories as well during my last trip to Palestine. Check them out, here.

I highly recommend tours especially if you have a limited amount of time in Palestine and you want to see several places in a short time.

Make sure you always check what’s included in the tour. For example, some tours include hotel pick and some don’t include it.

#1 Full-Day Trip from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, Bethlehem & the Dead Sea

If you join this tour, in one day starting from Tel Aviv, you will see the most significant religious sites of the old city of Jerusalem such as the Via Dolorose, the Wailing Wall, the Wall of Sepulchre, the Church of Nativity in Bethlehem where Jesus was born and you can even take a bath in the mud bath and float in the salty water of the Dead Sea.

#2 Full-Day Trip from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem & Bethlehem

This tour takes you to explore the holiest sites of Jerusalem and Bethlehem. This tour takes you to explore the Armenian and Jewish quarters of Jerusalem.

You will start by visiting the Via Dolorose, the Wailing Wall, and the Wall of Sepulchre in the Old City of Jerusalem. Also, they will take you to the Mount Scopus from which you will have a stunning panoramic view of not only the Temple Mount Esplanade but the new city of Jerusalem.

After Jerusalem, you will see the beautiful Manger Square, the Church of Nativity in Bethlehem and the Saint Catherine Roman Catholic Church.

#3 Full-Day Trip from Jerusalem to Bethlehem & the Dead Sea

This tour takes you to the most famous places in Bethlehem: The Chapel of Milk Grotto, the Church of Nativity and the Chapel of the Shepards’ Field in Bayt Sahurt. After visiting Bethlehem, you will travel through the Judean Desert to swim and float in the Dead Sea.

#4 Best of the West-Bank Full-Day Tour from Jerusalem

This tour takes you from Jerusalem to the best places where you can learn about the rich history of the West Bank the most: The Church of Nativity and the Separation Wall in Bethlehem, the religious sites of Jericho which is one of the oldest cities in the world, the ancient baptism site called Qasr el Yahud on the banks of River Jordan and Yasser Arafat Museum in the city of Ramallah.

#5 Dual Perspective Tour of Hebron from Jerusalem

This is definitely the most interesting tour in Palestine. The amount of knowledge you can accumulate here is priceless. During this tour, you will explore the divided city of Hebron, both its Palestinian and Israeli sides. You will be guided by an Israeli guide on the Israeli side and by a Palestinian guide on the Palestinian side.

The highlight of the trip is one of the holiest sites of Islam and Judaism, the Tomb of Patriarch which is also a divided place: one half of it is a mosque and the other side of it is a synagogue.

Another major highlight of this trip will be the gorgeous walking through the old market on the Palestinian side and having a homemade meal with a Palestinian family while talking about what life is like as a Palestinian family in Hebron.

There is a lot to learn about the history and culture of Palestine before visiting it. Here are just some of the most important things to know before you travel to Palestine.

1. Palestine today is a territory comprising of the Gaza Strip and the West Bank including East Jerusalem.

2. Palestine is occupied by Israel since 1967.  The West Bank itself is controlled by Israel but managed by the Palestinian Authority. The Gaza Strip is partly under Israeli military control, while Hamas retains influence in some areas and a transitional Palestinian administration is being established.

A powerful graphic artwork on wall of the West Bank Barrier which cuts off the Bethlehem from the rest of Israel – Visit to Palestine

3. The word Palestine was first used by Greek writers who referred to Palestine as Philistia and Palestinians as Philistines.

4. Palestinians are Arabs and they speak Palestinian Arabic which is one of the dialects of Modern Standard Arabic.

5. Palestine is home to some of the most important religious sites of Islam, Christianity and Judaism.

The entrance of the Milk Grotto Church in Bethlehem – Visit to Palestine

6. Approximately 93% of Palestinians are Sunni Muslim and approximately 6% are Christian.  Moreover, about 1 % of Palestinians are Samaritans who are followers of an early form of Judaism.

7. Christmas is celebrated three times a year: on 25th December following western traditions, on 6th January following Orthodox customs and on 18th January as per Armenian culture. Moreover, Easter in April is also celebrated in the Christian community.

8. Ramadan, Islamic New Year and the birth of Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) are the most significant times of the year for Palestinian Muslims.

9. The most well-known symbols of Palestine are the following:

– Temple Mount including the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque

Dome of the Rock on the Temple Mount in the holy city of Jerusalem – Visit to Palestine

– The Palestinian keffiyeh: a chequered black and white scarf worn around the head or only the neck
– The Palestinian key: a reminder of those who lost their homes in Nakba when more than half of Palestinians were expelled or fled Palestine in 1948
– The Palestinian poppy which has the same colors as the Palestinian flag
– Olive trees, lemons and oranges

10. Almost half of the Palestinian lands are dedicated to growing olive trees. Therefore, olive trees are part of the Palestinian identity.

Solo hike to the Mar Saba Monastery close to Bethlehem – Visit Palestine

TOURISM IN THE WEST BANK

Based on my experience, there is really not a lot of tourism going on in Palestine right now. I traveled to Palestine last time in May. While I was traveling in Palestine, I met a few independent foreign travelers and I have seen organized group tours.

I have seen tour groups in Jerusalem, Bethlehem and Jericho. Tour groups are mostly visiting religious places.

When traveling in the West Bank, I talked to Palestinians about tourism. They say that many businesses such as hostels have gone bankrupt as they don’t have enough tourists.

There are two main reasons for that. The first reason is corona. Then, the second reason is believed to be that people are afraid to travel to the West Bank because of the political situation.

I can say that that there is no reason to be afraid of traveling to the West Bank.

TOURISM IN GAZA

There is no tourism in Gaza. Regular travelers are not allowed to enter Gaza. You can only travel to Gaza as a diplomat, journalist, missionary or for business reasons.

ISRAEL & PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES TRAVEL GUIDE BY LONELY PLANET

This Lonely Planet Guide for Israel and Palestine will be perfect for you if you want to have a paper-based book full of information including history.

PALESTINE TRAVEL GUIDE BY BRADT

Here is another travel guide focusing only on Palestine.

THE ISRAELI-PALESTINIAN CONFLICT: WHAT EVERYONE NEEDS TO KNOW

The Israeli-Palestinian conflict is one of the longest-lasting conflicts in the history of humankind. If you want to learn about it in detail, pick up a book explaining it.

Is it safe to travel to Palestine? Is it safe to go to Palestine right now? Is Palestine safe to visit at all? These are questions that you might ask.

IS IT SAFE TO TRAVEL TO THE WEST BANK

In the news, you might see a lot of things that make you feel it’s not safe. Even when I was traveling in the West Bank, I heard about several unfortunate events happening both in Israel and Palestine due to the conflict between them.

However, regardless of what I heard, while traveling in the West Bank I personally always felt extremely safe.

The Monastery of Saint George of Choziba close to Jericho – Visit to Palestine

IS IT SAFE TO TRAVEL TO GAZA

I haven’t yet been to Gaza but as soon as I did, you will know about it.

Nabi Musa, the Prophet Moses Mosque located close to Jericho – Visit to Palestine

VISA TO PALESTINE

There is no Palestinian visa. In order to enter the West Bank, you will need to have an Israeli visa. It’s not an actual visa in fact. It’s a travel card. And this Israeli travel card is just a small piece of paper.

As I mentioned earlier, in order to enter Gaza, you need a special permit from an Israeli embassy. For tourism, it’s not allowed to travel to Gaza. You can only travel to Gaza as a diplomat, journalist, missionary or for business reasons.

ISRAEL VISA-FREE COUNTRIES

105 nationalities including EU countries, USA, Canada, New Zeeland and Japan can enter Israel without a visa. Upon arrival, they receive an Israeli travel card that is also valid in Palestine.

COUNTRIES NEEDING ISRAELI VISA

Citizens from 163 countries including United Arab Emirates, Iran, Iraq, Morocco and Tunisia need a visa to enter Israel.

To make sure whether you need visa or not, check out this info page.

ISRAELI STAMP

There is also no Israeli stamp. Israel doesn’t stamp passports for ages. A

Instead of stamping your passport, you just receive a piece of paper.

Let’s now only talk about Palestine as that’s where you are probably traveling to.

CAN YOU VISIT PALESTINE WITHOUT GOING THROUGH ISRAEL

In order to travel to Palestine, you have to travel to Israel. You absolutely cannot visit Palestine without going through Israel.

There are a lot of flights to Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv, Israel.

I will explain to you the whole process from what will happen when you arrive to the Ben Gurion Airport, what you will need to do there, what you should buy there, and how to travel to Palestine from the airport.

THINGS TO DO AT BEN GURION AIRPORT UPON ARRIVAL

STEP 1 – PASSPORT CONTROL & GETTING THE VISA CARD

At the first passport control, I got the Israeli tourist card. You know, Israel hasn’t been stamping passports for years. It’s due to the fact that Israel has bad relations with several countries and if you had a stamp from Israel, you might not be able to enter those countries.

At this point, among others, I had 2 Iranian visas and 2 Iraqi visas.  You might think it might have been problematic for me to enter Israel. Luckily, they didn’t really check the stamps inside my passport and didn’t ask anything. Thus, I got my visa card in less than a minute free of charge.

You can actually do it at the passport control machine but it didn’t work with my passport.

STEP 2 – GET CASH

Withdraw cash at the airport. At the Ben Gurion Airport, there are only Israeli cash machines.

They all take a transaction fee of 12-14 shekel (~ 4 USD).

STEP 3 – BUY A SIM CARD IF YOU DESPERATELY NEED A SIM CARD RIGHT AWAY

As an independent solo traveler, I always purchase a SIM card at the airport no matter how much it costs.

The only company available at the airport is 019. It’s an Israeli mobile network provider. They only sell expensive packages with unlimited international calls. And now I also know that this company has horrible coverage in the West Bank.

Honestly, I should not have wasted my money on that SIM card. Later, in the SIM card session of this travel guide, I’ll talk about the different SIM cards that you can use in the West Bank.

STEP 4 – TAKE THE TRAIN TO JERUSALEM

TRAIN TO JERUSALEM

Take the train to Jerusalem. The train is the fastest option for traveling from the Ben Gurion Airport to the city center of Jerusalem.

Train schedule: Google Map shows the train schedule precisely and the train runs pretty much on time. The trains run every half an hour on working days and every one hour on Friday and Saturday during the day.

Ben Gurion Airport – Jerusalem Central Station travel time: 20 – 22 minutes.

Ben Gurion Airport – Jerusalem Central Station train ticket price: 16,50 shekel (18 USD)

Insider tip: Do not use the smaller older looking machines for buying tickets and use cash for buying the train ticket. I paid for a ticket with my Visa card, the money was booked but I got bo ticket from the machine. And if this happens to you, I recommend not to waste your time trying to get your money back. Airport employees don’t speak English and they are not really bothered to help.

ARE THERE OTHER OPTIONS THAN THE TRAIN?

When I was at the airport, I asked around to find out about the best ways to get to Jerusalem.

There are also buses / shuttle services except on Friday and Saturday, shared taxis (sherut as they call it locally) and private taxis.

On Friday, when I was there the shared taxis were waiting for passengers but nobody took them. But the shared taxi drivers said not to worry as there will be people coming soon but in one hour I didn’t see anyone taking them. Also, they said that the trains are probably not working which was not true.

And if you add the traffic, I don’t think that buses or taxis would be quicker than the train.

STEP 5 – PUBLIC TRANSPORT TO YOU HOTEL/HOSTEL

From the central station, just go up and check on Google Maps what the best way is to get to your hotel/hostel.

There are trams and buses available in Jerusalem. The quickest is the tram within Jerusalem.

Price of a one-way tram ticket without transfer: 6 shekel (~ 2 USD)

Insider tip: Use cash for buying your ticket. Again, I paid for a ticket with my Visa card and I didn’t get the ticket. Then, using another ticket machine, I paid for my ticket with cash and it worked.

Israel’s Travel Card (RAV-KAV): This card is the main form of payment for public transportation including trains, trams, and buses in Israel. But if you will be only traveling in Palestine, you will not need it. In Palestine, the best way to get around is by shared taxi called sherut.

USING MAPS IN THE WEST BANK

Even if you know the way, keep asking on the way to make sure that you’re on the right way and in the right location.

I used Google Maps and Maps.me to check routes. Google Maps is not working well in the West Bank but you can use it. Mostly it shows that you have to go around hours even though there are direct and quick ways to get from A to B. So, don’t necessarily follow what Google Maps says.

TRAVEL TIMING IN THE WEST BANK

Start the day early and travel from A to B early in the morning not to lose time. Traveling late at night by public transport is not possible. If you want to go back on the same day somewhere, always ask when the last service taxi departs on the way back. Normally, they run until 5-6 pm.

I never really planned my schedule but I never had to wait much for a service taxi or bus.

SUMMARY OF HOW TO TRAVEL TO THE BEST PLACES IN PALESTINE (WEST BANK) INDEPENDENTLY

It’s very easy and safe to travel around the West Bank using public transport. And most importantly, it’s quite inexpensive.

I break down below how much I exactly paid for every single shared taxi and bus ride I paid for.

Shared service taxi station in Bethlehem – Visiting Palestine

From Jerusalem (Damascus Gate) to Bethlehem: Bus #231, 7.50 ISL (2.30 USD), 9,3 km
From Bethlehem to Mar Saba Monastery: Shared taxi to Ubeidiya, 5 ISL (1.50 USD), 30 km + 1-hour walk one way
From Bethlehem to Hebron: Shared taxi: 7 ISL (2.10 USD), 40 km
From Hebron to Bethlehem: Shared taxi: 7 ISL (2.10 USD), 40 km
From Bethlehem to Jericho: 50 km. As I traveled too late, there was no more shared taxi directly to Yericho. Thus, I did the following:
From Bethlehem to Al-Ezariya: Shared taxi, 21 Shekel (6.30 USD)
From Al-Ezariya to Jericho:  Shared taxi, 12 Shekel (3.60 USD) + 10 Shekel (3 USD) for taking me directly to my hostel.
From Jericho to Nabi Musa: Shared taxi to El-Azeriya, 10 Shekel (3 USD), 12 km, 17 mins + 15 minutes walking one way.
From Nabi Musa to Jericho: 15 minutes walking back to the main road + From the bus stop bus until the first big junction for free + Shared taxi, 10 Shekel (3 USD)
From Jericho to Wadi Al Qilt: Private taxi, 15 Shekel (4.50 USD), 16 km, 20 mins + hiking about 2-3 hours in total + walked back to Jericho as there was no taxi at all on the way back.
From Jericho to Nablus: Shared taxi, 30 Shekel (9 USD)
From Nablus to Ramallah: Shared taxi, 17 Shekel (5.10 USD), 24 km, 1 hour
From Ramallah to Jerusalem: Bus, 7.50 ISL (2.30 USD), 77 km

The total amount is 47.80 USD.

There are roughly 600 military checkpoints, roadblocks and all kinds of barriers built throughout the West Bank.

Checkpoints in the West Bank are very different from checkpoints in any other country such as Iraq where checkpoints exist for security reasons.

What are the checkpoints for in the West Bank? According to Israeli authorities, they created checkpoints and roadblocks in order to prevent terrorists from Palestine into Israel and enhance the security of Israeli settlements.

However, according to Palestinians, the reality is completely the opposite as they are only there to prevent the creation of an independent Palestinian State and to limit the movement of Palestinians.

While I was traveling there and saw the separation wall and the checkpoints, I didn’t feel it was necessary to erect these ugly things for the sake of security.

Each roadblock or checkpoint has Israeli soldiers standing and checking people there.

I will share with you my personal experience with these ugly constructions in the West Bank. I believe it’s a topic where everyone will have a different experience. This is my take as a solo female traveler from Hungary. I crossed or visited all the checkpoints on my own.

RAMALLAH-JERUSALEM CHECKPOINT

Driving through the Ramallah – Jerusalem checkpoint – Visit to Palestine

I was traveling to Jerusalem from Ramallah with a local bus. As we were approaching East Jerusalem, the wall appeared again. It’s seriously so ugly.

The traffic was moving slowly. All of a sudden a couple of Israeli soldiers equipped with guns visited us on the bus. They were checking the passengers. It was a weird experience.

I experienced something similar in Turkey when I was traveling in the Southern-Eastern part of Turkey where the majority of citizens are of Kurdish descent. There, Turkish soldiers get on buses and check everyone’s identity.

It’s a completely unreal experience to travel with locals who look like your grandma or your cousin and then soldiers with guns come and check all of you.

I seriously cannot even imagine what Palestinians might feel in such situations when they have to show their ID card to the Israeli Army on their land.

I cannot imagine either what Kurdish citizens feel when they are being checked by the Turkish Military in their own country.

CHECKPOINT 300 / BETHLEHEM CHECKPOINT / GILO CHECKPOINT / RACHEL’S TOMB CHECKPOINT

The exit of Checkpoint 300 on the Palestinian side – Visit to Palestine

This checkpoint is at one of the exits of Bethlehem. It is the most well-known Israeli checkpoint. As a tourist, you will probably not even notice it that you passed this checkpoint. I actually walked there from the center of Bethlehem. I just walked along the separation wall all the way to this checkpoint.

This part of the checkpoint is where Palestinians have to cross when moving between the West Bank and Israel.

The taxi drivers there thought I got lost. They didn’t understand what I was doing there. They said: “Foreigners never come here.”

A CHECKPOINT BETWEEN AREA A & AREA B CLOSE TO BETHLEHEM

I took a local bus from the heart of Bethlehem to get to a popular Palestinian restaurant called Shams Al-Aseel. I got off the bus at DCO / Beitjala.

There is a checkpoint just right after the bus stop. As it was already late and dark when I got here, I didn’t see anyone there.  Thus, I just walked through it.

The center of Bethlehem is in Area A and where the restaurant is located is Area B. It means I was walking into an area mostly controlled by Israel. It was an interesting transition. So, meanwhile, in Bethlehem, you will only see Arabic shops and restaurants, after the checkpoint, you will only see Israeli shops.

Do you know about Area A, B and C? In nutshell, the Oslo Accord divided the West Bank into three zones.

• Area A: The Palestinian Authority controls security, public and civil affairs. This is about 18 % of the West Bank.
• Area B: Israel controls security and Palestinian Authority controls public and civil affairs. This is about 22 % of the West Bank.
• Area C: Israel controls fully everything: security, public and civil affairs. This is 60 % of the West Bank.

When I was walking back to Bethlehem crossing the checkpoint, I could see a big red sign with the following message written on it:

“This road leads to Area A under the Palestinian Authority. The entrance for Israeli citizens is forbidden, dangerous to your lives and is against Israeli Law.”

Whether it’s enforced or not, it’s very sad to read this. Doesn’t it feel like a campaign of fear and segregation?

CHECKPOINTS AROUND TEMPLE MOUNT IN EAST JERUSALEM

There are many roadblocks around the Temple Mount and it has many entrances with a lot of Israeli soldiers.  First, I was intimidated by them. Then I got used to them. They were always nice to me.

Each roadblock has around 3-5 Israeli soldiers. They are just standing there and that’s it.

Each entrance to the Temple Mount is a checkpoint with a lot of Israeli soldiers standing there.  They might not be called checkpoints officially but what would you call an entrance to a tourist or religious place full of soldiers?

Right next to the hostel where I stayed, there is an entrance to Temple Mount. This particular entrance is only accessible to Muslims. This checkpoint had at least 5 Israeli soldiers there. I have never seen them checking people walking through it. While I was drinking coffee or having breakfast at my hostel, I was always watching what was going on there but there was really nothing going on.

I always used the entrance to Temple Mount close to the Western Wall. That’s the entrance for non-Muslims including foreign tourists. This is kind of a long entrance where they also scan your bags.

CHECKPOINTS IN HEBRON AT THE TOMB OF PATRIARCH ON THE PALESTINIAN SIDE

Hebron is a divided city. It’s split into 2 areas: The Palestinian area is called H1 and the Israeli-controlled area of Hebron is called H2.

These checkpoints are in the middle of Hebron. Israel even split one of the most famous landmarks of Palestine into two pieces, the building where the Tomb of Patriarch is located. The first half of it the building remained a mosque called the Al-Ibrahimi Mosque and the other half was transformed into a synagogue.

In order to enter the Tomb of Patriarch (Cave of Patriarch) in Hebron from the Palestinian Territories using the main entrance, you will have to go through 2 checkpoints.

As you come from the covered bazaar of the old town of Hebron, before entering the mosque, you will find an ugly kiosk with Israeli soldiers. They asked me about my religion. I said I was Christian and they let me through the barrier.

Then, came another barrier and then an ugly little building where I was asked if I have weapons or knives. After confirming that I have none of these, I was let go through and I passed another barrier. So, in total it was three barriers.

CHECKPOINTS IN HEBRON AT THE TOMB OF PATRIARCH ON THE ISRAELI SIDE

After leaving the mosque, I walked to the Israeli side. There, you see the Israeli flag outside the building of the Cave of Patriarch.

To enter the Cave of Patriarch from the Israeli side there are again 2 checkpoints. At the first one, I was asked again about my religion and then about what I wanted to do there. I said again: “I’m Christian and I’m just a tourist.”

I walked through the yard of the Cave of Patriarch and again checkpoints with barriers. Then, you walk up the stairs and you find yourself in the synagogue of the Tomb of Patriarch.

I’m sure you asked yourself: What places should I visit in Palestine?

I collected the 10 best places to visit in Palestine for you.

Jerusalem is one of the most unique places in the world. It’s a holy place for three world religions: Christianity, Judaism and Islam.

The old city of Jerusalem has 4 quarters: Armenian, Christian, Muslim, and Jewish.

In this historic city, you will find many of the most famous landmarks of Palestine. You can see the utmost important sites of Jerusalem in one day but spending 2-3 days in Jerusalem will be much better.

Jerusalem is the place to roam around and a place where you just want to observe people and learn through them.

Observe how Jews pray at the Wailing Wall, how Orthodox Christians pray in the Church of Sepulcher, how Muslims pass the checkpoints to access to the Dome of the Rock or the different traditional dresses people of different faith are wearing.

It’s the place where you just want to roam around and discover cool things that you have never read about in travel guides.

It’s the place where you want to take your time and talk to the locals. I talked to many people randomly about life in Jerusalem.

HOW TO GET AROUND JERUSALEM

There are trams and buses in Jerusalem. I took the tram only once when I came to the old town from the central bus station and back.

I never needed a bus.

The best places to visit in Jerusalem are all in the old city or close to the old city. You can walk everywhere.

BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN JERUSALEM

Let me tell you about the best places to visit in Jerusalem. Admission is free to all the sites below.

#1 Haram Al-Sharif  (Temple Mount)

Temple Mount is one of the holiest places in the world. It’s a sacred place for all three monotheistic religions: Islam, Christianity and Judaism.

Among others, it’s the place where Prophet Muhammad ascended to heaven and it’s the place where Abraham sacrificed his son to God.

The Temple Mount has an extraordinary wide plaza where you can roam around and admire its unique historic structures.

The view from Temple Mount in Jerusalem – Visit to Palestine

On Temple Mount, you will find the most iconic landmarks of Jerusalem: the Dome of Rock with its beautiful glittering dome.

Moreover, this is where you can find one of the oldest mosques in the world, the Al-Aqsa Mosque.

Temple Mount security situation:

The Temple Mount is highly secured. Not only at its entrances, there are loads of Israeli soldiers but around it, there are several barriers with Israeli soldiers.

I have already talked about it in the section on Checkpoints in Palestine.

 Intricate tilework of the Dome of the Rock situated on the Temple Mount in Jerusalem – Visit to Palestine

Temple Mount access points:

Temple Mount has 12 gates. Muslims can get into Temple Mount through 12 gates. However, tourists and non-Muslims can only enter through the Moroccan Gate, also called the Mugrabi Gate. This gate is located close to the Western Wall Plaza.

Temple Mount entrance fee: free

Temple Mount opening hours for non-Muslim visitors:

Sunday – Thursday: 7 – 11 am & 13:30 – 15:00

This can change anytime and the opening hours in winter are a bit shorter. In Jerusalem, you can ask the soldiers about the visiting hours. It was the first thing I asked when I got to the Old City of Jerusalem and then made my plans accordingly. I entered Temple Mount the next day as early as 7 am.

Friday -Saturday: Closed

Muslims can visit Temple Mount anytime.

Entrance to the Dome of Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque:

Only Muslims are permitted to enter these two grandiose buildings.

#2 Western Wall

It’s one of the holiest places in Judaism. Here, you can see Jews praying all day and late at night. The wall is divided into two worship areas: the first half is for men and the second half is for women. I walked down to the wall in the female section to experience the ambiance there. It felt like being in another world.

#3 Church of the Holy Sepulchre

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre allocated in the Christian Quarter of Jerusalem is a beautiful church dating back to the 4th century. It’s one of the holiest places in Christianity because this is where Jesus was crucified and this is where the empty tomb of Jesus is kept.

Inside the church, you will see some absolutely remarkable decorations including super detailed and colorful wall paintings.

It’s also extremely interesting to observe how Christians pray there.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre Opening Hours:
April to September: 5:00 – 20:00
October to March: 5:00 – 19:00

Church of the Holy Sepulchre in the old city of Jerusalem – Visit to Palestine

#4 Mount of Olives

The Mount of Olives is a hill east of the Old City of Jerusalem. It is called the Mount of Olives because its slopes used to be covered with olive groves. It has a religious significance as it was mentioned in the Bible many times.

Getting there is a really nice walk from the Old City. On the way up, you will see 3,000 years old huge Jewish cemetery and on the top of the hill , you will find a viewing platform from which you can enjoy an epic view of Old the City of Jerusalem with the flashing golden dome of the Temple Mount in the center.

View from the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem – Visit to Palestine 

WHERE TO EAT IN JERUSALEM

Jerusalem is a very touristic place. It has a lot of restaurants for every budget. The restaurants in the old city are quite expensive but if you walk outside the tourist area, you will find really cheap meals in less fancy places.

The restaurants and stands selling food in the old town mostly close their business at around 3 pm and some of them reopen at 8 pm such as this egg pizza making place you see in the next photo.

You can have it with or without meat. It’s very delicious and it cost only 8 shekel. I don’t remember if it’s the price with or without meat.

Shop selling Palestinian egg pizza in the old city of Jerusalem – Visit to Palestine 

In the Old City of Jerusalem, you can try street food such as Zaatar bread (Manakish). It costs 8 shekel (2.40 USD).

Outside the tourist area but still very close to it, there are fast food resturants where you can have traditional Palestinian meals. I randomly tried the Alayed Restaurant.

The meals look normal but somehow they are very heavy. I just ordered a salad and I could not finish it as it was too oily.

Mansaf with lamb: 70 shekel (21 USD)
Makluba with half chicken: 55 shekel (16.40 USD)
Mosakhan: 55 shekel (16.40 USD)
Schawarma: 55 shekel (16.40 USD)
Fattoush Salad: 17 shekel (5 USD)

HOW TO GET TO BETHLEHEM

Getting to Bethlehem is very easy by public transport. There are regular buses going to Bethlehem from Jerusalem and shared service taxis (sherut) from Hebron and Jericho.

BUS FROM JERUSALEM TO BETHLEHEM

Bus station location: Damascus Gate

Bus number: 231

When you are at the bus station, you can either ask others about where exactly the bus is at the station or look for the bus stop for bus number 231.

Bus ticket price: 7.50 shekel

Journey duration: 1 hour

MOVING AROUND BETHLEHEM

The best places to see in Bethlehem are within walking distance from each other.

6. 6 BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN BETHLEHEM

#1 THE SEPARATION WALL / ISRAELI WEST BANK BARRIER

I think this is the most important place to see in Palestine. This is where your journey should start.

Visual art on the Wall, the Israeli West Bank Barrier – Visiting Palestine

Israel started to build this wall in 2022 after the second Intifada as they say for security reasons. The wall separates Israel from the West Bank.

The wall is decorated with graffiti and paintings. This is how you can learn a lot about the history of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict and what it feels like to live under Israeli occupation as a Palestinian.

You can walk along the wall for a long time. As a starting point, take this spot: The Walled Off Hotel

The first picture shows the starting point of the walk and you can walk in the direction where you see the second and third murals.

I walked all the way to the checkpoint called Checkpoint 300 which you can also find on Google Maps. You can’t walk directly along the wall all the way.

When I was approaching the checkpoint walking along a deserted street, a couple of taxi drivers stopped asking if I got lost as they really didn’t understand what on earth a foreigner is doing there.

#2 PALESTINIAN HERITAGE CENTER

It’s a Palestinian cultural center. Here, you will find exhibitions of Palestinian customs, history, and folklore. They also sell really beautiful Palestinian traditional garments, books, and souvenirs.

Inside the Palestinian Heritage Center – Visiting Palestine

#3 MANGER SQUARE IN THE OLD CITY OF BETHLEHEM

Manger Square in the old city of Bethlehem – Visit to Palestine

I love the Old City of Bethlehem which dates back to the Ottoman period in Palestine. I really enjoyed walking around in the heart of Bethlehem, interacting with the locals and visiting its historical sites.

You can start exploring the beautiful curvy stone streets and its historical sights from Manger Square located right in the middle of the old town of Bethlehem.

The entire old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, you can find some of Palestine’s most popular tourist attractions.

#4 CHURCH OF NATIVITY

First head to the Church of Nativity also called Basilica of Nativity. It’s mainly known for being a significant religious site for Christians as it’s the birthplace of Jesus.

But in reality, it’s also an important site for Muslims who consider Jesus as one of their prophets.

It’s one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Palestine. You will see here tourists from all around the world.

Church of Nativity entrance fee: free

Church of Nativity summertime (April – September) visiting hours:

Monday – Friday: 6:30 – 17:30

Church of Nativity wintertime (October – March) visiting hours:

Monday – Friday: 5:30 – 17:00

Note! The grotto is closed on Sunday in the morning. It only opens in the afternoon.

#5 CHURCH OF ST. CATHERINE

The courtyard of Saint Catherine Church – Visiting Palestine

The Church of Saint Catherine also known as the Chapel of Saint Catherine is also a religious site right next to the Church of Nativity.

It’s a really beautiful church and it is also home to a complex caves system in its basement. Moreover, it’s also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There are a lot of tourist groups here. To take this photo below, I had to wait and be quick with taking photos when a group left and before the next group came.

Church of Saint Catherine entrance fee: free

Church of Saint Catherine summertime (April – September) visiting hours:

Monday – Friday: 6:30 – 17:30

Church of Saint Catherine wintertime (October – March) visiting hours:

Monday – Friday: 5:30 – 17:00

#6 CHAPEL OF MILK GROTTO

The Chapel of the Milk Grotto of Our Lady is mostly referred to as the Milk Grotto.

It’s a Catholic Chapel from the Byzantine period. This is where according to the Christian tradition Jesus, Virgin Mary and Saint Joseph found refuge during a massacre when the King of Judea, Herod, ordered murdering all two-year-old male children in Bethlehem.

That is why the tradition says that praying for children here has miraculous power.

It has an impressive courtyard and three different caves where you can find small chapels.

The courtyard of the Milk Grotto Church – Visiting Palestine

Little chapel in the Milk Grotto Church – Visiting Palestine

Milk Grotto entrance fee: free

Milk Grotto summertime visiting hours:

Monday – Friday: 8:00 – 17:45

Sunday and feast days: 8:00 – 11:45 & 14:00 – 17:45

Milk Grotto wintertime visiting hours:

Monday – Friday: 8:00 – 16:45

Sunday and feast days: 8:00 – 11:45 & 14:00 – 16:45

WHAT TO EAT IN BETHLEHEM

Street food and fast food in Bethlehem

You will find falafel and shawarma very easily close to the touristic attractions of old Bethlehem.

Shawarma Ala sahen (Sharma on plate) + orange juice: 20 Shekel (5.80 USD) + 3 Shekel (0.90 USD)
Falafel: 6 Shekel (1.70 USD)
Corn cup: 5 Shekel (1.50 USD)
Small Manakis (bread with zaatar): 4 Shekel (1.20 USD)
A small cup of fresh orange-carrot juice: 10 Shekel (2.90 USD)

Restaurants in Bethlehem

Good restaurants with Palestinian food are a bit far from the old town of Bethlehem.

If you want to eat proper Palestinian food in a good restaurant in Bethlehem, I recommend the restaurant called Shams Al-Aseel.

You can get there by taking the local bus to Jerusalem. Just get off the bus on the way to DCO / Beitjala, then walk 5 minutes to reach the restaurants. And after dinner, you can walk back to Bethlehem. It will take around 30 minutes to walk back as you’ll be walking downhill.

By the way, the area where the restaurant is located is in Area B. It means it’s mostly controlled by Israel. Remember, there will be a checkpoint on the way but you can just walk through it.

My main course recommendations are the following:

• Musakhan (Traditional flatbread topped with roaster chicken and onions  seasoned with sumac, served with yogurt) for 50 Shekel (15 USD)
• Maqluba (Traditional dish of rice, chicken, fried eggplant, cauliflower and potato cooked in a single pot and then flipped upside down, served with yogurt) for 50 Shekel (15 USD) or
• Wareq el Einab & Stuffed Squash (Grape leaves & summer squash stuffed with seasoned rice) for  also 50 Shekel (15 USD)

In this restaurant, you can find traditional salads such as Tabbouleh for 25 Shekel (7.50 USD)or Fattoush for 20 Shekel (5.80 USD). As a refreshment, take a fresh juice (12 – 15 Shekel). The most delicious and one of the most popular fresh juices in Palestine is lemonade with mint.

Close-up image of the Mar Saba Monastery – Visit to Palestine

MAR SABA MONASTERY OPENING VISIT

You can go to the monastery anytime as it’s located in an open area.

As for entering the monastery, women are not allowed to enter the monastery at all.

MAR SABA MONASTERY OPENING HOURS

It’s closed for visitors on Wednesdays and Fridays (the fasting days of the week).

Again, this only refers to entering the building of the monastery.

HOW TO GET TO MAR SABA MONASTERY FROM BETHLEHEM

STEP 1 -TAKE A SHARED TAXI  TO UBEDIYA

From Bethlehem, take a shared taxi to Ubediyah and then walk to the monastery.

The shared taxi station is located close to KFC. So first, head to KFC. Once you are there, ask anyone for the Sherut to Jericho and people will show you the way. Just ask this way: Sherut Jericho?

Just under the KFC sign, you enter the place, you find yourself in a shopping mall, go down to the parking lot in the basement, walk outside from the parking lot and you will find the shared service taxi station with big yellow minibusses. And simply ask for the Sherut to Ubediyah.

Shared taxi  to Ubediya price: 5 Shekel one way

Make sure that you tell the shared taxi driver that you want to go to Mar Sabaa. Just say to him in Arabic: Bil Sherut ila Ubediyah, baden nemsit Mar Sabaa.

This way, he will drop you exactly where it’s the best for you. Where the shared taxi driver dropped me, there was a sign showing the direction to the Mar Sabaa Monastery.

STEP 2 – HIKE FROM UBEDIYA TO MAR SABA MONASTERY

The hike from where the shared taxi leaves you to the Mar Saba Monastery is 1 hour one way.

The road leading to the Mar Saba Monastery from the direction of Ubediyah – Visit to Palestine

It can be quite challenging when it’s hot. Remember that you will be walking on the road up and downhill. There is not much traffic there and I felt completely safe walking alone to the monastery and then back.

Every single car stopped on my way and they all offered me a ride either as a service or free. But I politely declined all the offers as I was very happy to hike and take photos and videos on the way.

Other than these encounters, just outside the village, I met a lot of goats on the road.

Did I see anyone walking to the monastery from the village? No. Even independent travelers took a taxi to visit the monastery.

Should you do it? I’m used to walking a lot to remote places. This is nothing unusual for me. But if you are not used to it, you will find yourself in an uncomfortable situation.

MAR SABA MONASTERY HIKE

When I was there, I have seen tourists with drivers or tour buses at the monastery but they were only there for a very short time. They pick a couple of viewpoints to take photos and then they leave.

My journey was completely different. I hiked up and down at the monastery looking for stunning viewpoints.

One of the best places to visit in the West Bank, the Mar Saba Monastery – Visit to Palestine

Stunning view of Mar Saba Monastery  – Visit to Palestine

Let’s have a close look at the Mar Saba Monastery – Visit to Palestine

Now, a very close look at the Mar Saba Monastery – Visit to Palestine

After reaching the Mar Saba Monastery, I hiked down the valley and then up and then again down and up. Without doing so, people visiting the Mar Saba Monastery are really missing out.

If you check my pictures, you can see the stairs and walking trails.

It was quite demanding as it was extremely hot that day but I have no regrets as this way, I could admire the Mar Saba Monastery from different angles.

Luckily, there is a Beduin family selling cold water, coffee, tea, homemade cookies, and fruits on both sides.

For a coffee, some melon, and cookies with date, I paid 10 Shekel. When I asked how much I should pay for all, the guy (Basim) said as you like. And I just paid 10 Shekel (2.90 USD). And then on the other side, for small water, I paid 5 Shekel (1.50 USD).

When I asked how much I’m paying, they just said: “As you like.” So, basically, I decided about the price. Later, I asked a Palestinian friend if the amounts I paid were fair and he said yes.

HEBRON – #4 BEST PLACE TO VISIT IN PALESTINE

HEBRON AS A DIVIDED CITY

By an agreement in 1997 Hebron was divided into two areas: the Israeli-controlled H2 and the Palestinian-controlled H1. At the checkpoint section, I also explained this.

HOW TO GET TO HEBRON

There are shared service taxis and service buses from Bethlehem to Hebron

Service bus price: 7 shekel (2.50 USD)

Shared service bus going to Hebron from Bethlehem  – Visit to Palestine

HOW TO GET AROUND HEBRON

All the places I list here are within walking distance of each other.

From the shared taxi station, you will walk towards the local market and through the local market, you will get to the historic center of Hebron including the old bazaar and the Ibrahimi Mosque.

3 BEST THINGS TO VISIT IN HEBRON

1. HISTORIC BAZAAR IN THE OLD CITY OF HEBRON

The covered bazaar in the old city of Hebron – Visit to Palestine

Pickles on sale in the covered bazaar in the historic city of Hebron – Visit to Palestine

This bazaar is under Palestinian control and all the stores are Palestinian. However, above the stores, there are settlers living.

It’s a very quiet and peaceful place. The locals are extremely welcoming and friendly.

I got to talk to a lot of the locals who explained to me many things about Hebron.

Most shops are closed because most shop owners left as they could not make their living in Hebron anymore due to the lack of tourists. Yes, indeed when I was there, I didn’t see any tourists.

The local shopkeepers say that they would love to have more tourists. Otherwise, they will also have to leave.

There are some parts where the bazaar is not covered and the Palestinians have to use nets above them because the settlers are throwing rubbish at them.

When you visit bazaars in the West Bank, you will see a wide range of colorful pickles. There are also a lot of them in Hebron. Pickled vegetables are an essential part of Palestinian cuisine. The best one is the pink cauliflower pickles. The reason why it’s pink is that it’s pickled with beets.

2. TOMB OF PATRIARCH (IBRAHIMI MOSQUE)

Ibrahimi Mosque inside in the historic city of Hebron – Visit to Palestine

The Tomb of Patriarch in Hebron on the Israeli-controlled side 

It is a significant religious site: a holy place both for Muslims and Jews.

As I also explained earlier, this building is also split into two places. Israel occupied half of the building and made the second half a synagogue.

3. THE HIRBAWI FACTORY – KEFFIYEH WEAVERY

Keffiyeh (or Kufiya) is the quintessential patterned scarves people wear in the Middle East including Palestine. I mentioned earlier that it’s one of the symbols of Palestine as Yasser Arafat, former president of the State of Palestine.

The Hirbawi factory is the last and only Keffiyeh factory in Palestine.

On Google Maps, you can find it easily by typing Hirbawi Kufiya. I just walked in, asked if I can look around, and they said yes.

In the Hirbawi factory, the oldest Kuffiyeh factory in Palestine 

A weaving machine in the oldest Keffiyeh factory of Palestine, in Hebron

PRICES IN HEBRON

Small water: 2 shekel (0.60 USD)
Sweets: 2 shekel (0.60 USD)
Falafel: 6 shekel (1.80 USD)
Carrot juice: 2 shekel (0.60 USD)

JERICHO – #5 BEST PLACE TO VISIT IN PALESTINE

HOW TO GET TO JERICHO FROM BETHLEHEM

From the shared taxi station where you took the shared taxi toward the Mar Saba Monastery, you can take shared taxis to Yericho.

I got there quite late and there was no more shared taxi going directly to Jericho but there was another solution.

I took a shared taxi to Al-Azariya for 21 shekel and then another shared taxi from there to Jericho for 12 shekel.

HOW TO GET AROUND JERICHO

I walked a lot but the best way to move around is by private taxi. A ride costs either 10 or 15 shekel.

BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN JERICHO

1. MOUNT OF TEMPTATION

The Mount of Temptation is the place where Jesus was tempted by the devil during his 40-day fast in the desert.

Today, you can find the Greek Orthodox Monastery of the Temptation on the slopes of the Mount of Temptation. It’s a very beautiful sight.

The monastery inside is also exceptionally interesting. It’s very fascinating to see how the monastery was build into the cliffs.

Mount of Temptation in Jericho – One of the most famous tourist attractions in Palestine

HOW TO GET TO THE MOUNT OF TEMPTATION

– With the Jericho cable car: Tourists use the cable car to get up to the Mount of Temptation. A return ticket costs 60 shekels for adults and 50 shekel for students.

Jericho Cable Car opening hours:
Saturday – Thursday: 8:00 – 19:00
Friday: 8:00 – 10:00
Holidays: 8:00 – midnight

– On foot: If you are fit, you can walk up to the Mount of temptation. On the way up, there is a local supermarket. I recommend buying cold drinks there. It can be really hot while hiking up.

– By taxi: If you are running out of time, you can get a taxi for 15-20 shekel up to the stairs leading to the monastery. Then, just walk up the stairs.

MOUNT OF TEMPTATION OPENING HOURS

Let me share with you the official opening hours that is written just outside the monastery on Mount of Temptation.

Monday – Saturday: 9:00 – 14:00

Sunday: Closed

Mind the fact that at the Jericho Cable Car they displayed different hours. But that’s not correct.

2. HISHAM PALACE

Hisham Palace, also called Khirbat al-Mafjar, is one of the most important Islamic archeological sites in the West Bank. It was built by the Umayyad dynasty in the 8th century.

HOW TO GET TO THE HISHAM PALACE

If you are fit, you can walk there.

Or, take a taxi for about 10-15 shekel.

HOW TO GET TO JERICHO FROM THE HISHAM PALACE

If there is a taxi driver at the palace, you can take a taxi. Or, walk back to Jericho. Walking back to Jericho is very easy because you walk back downhill and it takes only half an hour.

HISHAM PALACE ENTRANCE FEE

10 shekel

WHAT TO EAT IN JERICHO

In the center of Jericho, there are places to eat fast food as shawarma. It costs 15 shekel (4.40 USD). A drink, such as a small bottle of mango juice costs 3 shekel (0.90 USD).

FOOD PRICES IN JERICHO SUMMARY

Small croissant: 2 Shekel (0.60 USD)
Nescafe 2 in 1: 1 shekel (0.30 USD)
Small water in a supermarket: 2 shekel (0.60 USD)
Big water in a supermarket: 3 shekel (0.90 USD)
Small coke in supermarket: 1 shekel (0.30 USD)
Small water in touristic places: 3-5 shekel (0.90 – 1.50 USD)
Shawarma + mango juice: 15 shekel (4.40 USD) + mango juice 3 shekel (0.90 USD)

NABI MUSA – #6 BEST PLACE TO VISIT IN PALESTINE

Nabi Musa is a mosque close to Jericho. Musa is Moses in Islam. The mosque itself is believed to contain the tomb of Moses according to Islamic traditions.

View of Nabi Musa from the hill behind it – traveling in Palestine 

HOW TO GET TO NABI MUSA FROM JERICHO

This is also much easier than I thought. Nabi Musa lies about 11 km (6.8 mi) south of Jericho.

I took a private taxi to take me to a spot where I can take the shared taxi to El-Azeriya. Just say sherut Al-Azeriya.

You have to pay for the full ride which is 10 shekel but you get off at the junction closest to Nabi Musa. I just told the driver that I’m going to Nabi Musa and he knew where to drop me on the road.

Then, walk about 45 minutes on the road to reach to Nabi Musa.

NABI MUSA OPENING HOURS

I don’t know for sure but the earlier you get there, the better.

There are a lot of religious tourists visiting Nabi Musa with big tour buses. If you arrive early, you can avoid them.

You can walk around in the courtyard of the mosque, you can go inside the praying hall, and check out the tomb of Ibrahim.

After visiting the mosque inside, you can walk up the hill behind the mosque for a stunning view of Nabi Musa.

HOW TO GET BACK TO JERICHO FROM NABI MUSA

You can walk back the same way you came from from the road junction. When you reached the junction, on your right, you will see a bus stop, you can wait there and take a bus until the next junction.

I just took the first random bus to the next junction. I didn’t have to pay for the bus ticket. Then from the next junction, there was a bus stop on the way to the center of Jericho and I waved down the first shared taxi-looking vehicle and quickly got back to Jericho. It cost also 10 Shekel.

BUDGET FOR VISITING NABI MUSA

This solution, the way I did it, only costs 20 Shekel (5.80 USD).

If you are not on a budget, you can pay for a private taxi to take you there.

WADI QELT – #7 BEST PLACE TO VISIT IN PALESTINE

Wadi Qelt is a stunning valley, riverine gulch or stream. It’s one of the best places for hiking in the West Bank.

The most awesome place to see in Wadi Qelt is the St. George Monastery. It’s a Greek Orthodox Monastery built into the cliffs of Wadi Qelt and it’s inhabited by Greek Orthodox monks.

Epic view of the Monastery of Saint George of Choziba in Wadi Qelt- traveling in Palestine 

HOW TO GET TO WADI QELT & THE MONASTERY OF SAINT GEORGE OF CHOZIBA

This means hiking in Wadi Qelt and visiting the Monastery of Saint George of Choziba.

The monastery itself is about 10 km from the center of Jericho.

It’s easier than I imagined. I made a mistake when going there but now I can explain to you very well how to do it.

First, take a private taxi to the Wadi Qelt Hostel. But actually, you will have to get off the taxi a little bit before. The distance is 4 km and the ride costs 15-20 shekel. I paid 20 shekel.

Stay on the same side as this hostel, there will be a sign on a dirt road showing you the way to Herod’s palace. Where you see this sign, that’s where you start to hike.

From here, walk to the monastery. It takes about an hour to get there.

Magnificient view of the Monastery of Saint George of Choziba in the valley of Wadi  Qelt – traveling in Palestine 

HOW TO GET BACK FROM THE MONASTERY TO WADI QELT

After visiting the monastery, you can walk up the stairs on the other side for a beautiful view.

On the top of the trail just on the side of the road, there will be Bedouins selling drinks and souvenirs. From here, you can walk further up for a stunning view.

Then, from here you can walk back on the road enjoying the beautiful mountains.

Mind the fact, that is not a joking trail. This is a proper road with hardly any traffic.

If you don’t want to walk there like, walk back to the monastery and then take the same hiking trail as on the way there.

MONASTERY OF SAINT GEORGE OF CHOZIBA OPENING HOURS

Start as early as you can. The monastery is open every day but only from 9:00 to 13:00.

And If it’s closed, I don’t remember if it’s possible to walk to the other side of the valley from which you will have a wonderful view over the monastery encapsulated in this beautiful rocky valley. Closed doesn’t only mean closing the entrance of the monastery but also the gates around it.

MONASTERY OF SAINT GEORGE OF CHOZIBA ENTRANCE FEE

Free

WADI QELT INSIDER TIPS

Just in front of the entrance, you will find a little tap from which you can get water. It was life-saving as by the time I got there, I consumed already 2 liters of water. That’s how hot that day was.

NABLUS – #8 BEST PLACE TO VISIT IN PALESTINE

Street view in Nablus – traveling in Palestine 

Nablus is my favorite place ever in Palestine.

I love the atmosphere there and I found the locals in Nablus the friendliest people in Palestine.

The climate is also refreshing there thanks to the mountains.

If my time in the West Bank would not have been limited, I would have stayed there for at least a week.

HOW TO GET TO NABLUS FROM JERICHO

Shared service taxi / sherut: 30 Shekel

Street view with a mosque in Nablus – traveling in Palestine 

BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN NABLUS, PALESTINE

1. Old City of Nablus

Its streets and narrow alleyways with stone houses, mosques, and churches are so fascinating.

If you want to visit mosques on the way, it’s wise to wear a long-sleeve shirt and have a scarf in your bag.

When I explored the historic streets of Nablus, I wasn’t prepared for that. On my way, I just stopped at a mosque. As I was not dressed up properly, I was just kind of looking inside the mosque from the outside. All of a sudden, the caretaker of the mosque waved to come in. I said I don’t have a hijab. He said not to worry, just come. He gave me a dress to cover. It was a pleasant surprise.

This little mosque I found by chance. The most famous mosque in Nablus is the El-Kebir Mosque (Great Mosque)

The bazaar of Nablus is also amazing. You can buy a lot of unique Palestinian goods.

You can buy them for your friends and family as a bird and also for yourself. These are some of the things that I bought from the old market and I’ll also tell you how much I paid for them.

Palestinian dates:

Half kilo juicy Palestinian dates: only 5 shekel

Spices:

The price of the spices can vary depending on the quality.

The sumac I bought was 20 per kilo and the zaatar 32 per kilo. But it can be cheaper or more expensive. You can taste the spices and you will see a big difference between cheaper and more expensive ones.

I paid 6 shekel for 50 g sumac and 200 g zaatar.

Moreover, in the market area, you can find delicious Palestinian pastry and dessert shops.

2. Knafeh Shop – Al Aqsa Kunafeh

Al Aqsa Kunafeh is the most famous knafeh shop in Nablus located in the heart of the old city.

In the evening, close to the knafeh shop, I could see how they make the knafeh as the door was open.

Then, in the morning I could experience the whole process of making the knafeh as that place is completely open.

Finally, when the first portion was ready, we could try it. Believe it or not, one big portion of knafeh was gone in a couple of minutes.

The best time to go there is in the morning when it opens. It can open at 9 or 10 in the morning. Make sure to ask in your hotel or hostel about the opening times. It’s not open all day.

A piece of Kunefe costs 6 shekel.

3. Old Soap Factories

Nablusian hand-made soups are famous all over Palestine. You can visit the Nablus Soap Factory and see how they make, store and wrap the soups. You can also buy soaps there.

In this big soap factory, you can buy soap. You can get 2 – 3 bars of soap for 6 shekel.

There is another place where you can see an old soap factory, taste the olive oil they use for making soap, and buy soap and shower gel.

This is how much I paid for the products from there:

3 soaps: 3*5=15 shekel

Oils for showering: 3*10=30 shekel

4. Balata Religious Site

– Jakob’s Well Greek Orthodox Church

The church itself is a beautiful stone church you should not miss. In the basement of the church, there is a well. It is said that Jacob built this well.

– Joseph’s Tomb

Close to the church, you can find Josephs’s Tomb. It is believed that Jacob buried his son, Joseph, here.

It’s closed and you can only visit it with a permit from the government. The policeman said that we could try to get a permit at the police station. So, I went to the police station for fun and asked for it but we got no permit for it.

5. Samaritan village – Kiryat Luza

Close to Nablus situated on Mount Gerizim, you will find a very interesting place. This is the only place in the world where only Samaritans live.
Samaritans are an ethnoreligious group considered to originate from the ancient Israelites.

How to get to Samaritan village:

By taxi: It should cost maximum 20 shekel.

Things to do in Kiryat Luza:

– Visiting the Samaritan Museum where you can learn about the Samaritans.

Entrance fee including guiding: 25 shekel

– There is also an archeological site in the village. It’s a highly secured site. I wonder why.

It wasn’t interesting at all but the view is pretty nice from there. The entrance fee is 22 shekel.

How to get back to Nablus from the Samaritan village:

There was no taxi there. So, I started walking down the road until a taxi came along.

From somewhere on the way, we (me and 3 friends from the hostel) got a taxi. The taxi to the Balata village was 20 shekel.

Then, from there 15 shekel to get back to the center of Nablus.

What to eat in the Samaritan village:

The only thing I found there was a shop where they made falafel.

Prices in the Samaritan village: 3 shekel for a small bottle of water and 4 shekel for a falafel

WHERE TO EAT IN NABLUS

Streetfood in Nablus:

While roaming around Nablus, you can find falafel and sweet shops

Restaurants in Nablus:

Similar to Bethlehem, you will not find a proper restaurant in the old city of Palestine. But if you walk to the new city, there is a street full of modern shops and eateries where you will also find a restaurant with traditional Palestinian food.

I tried the restaurant called Kan Yama Kan. It’s not on Google Maps in English. But you can ask anyone about its location.

This is the best restaurant I have found in Palestine.

It’s pricey but it’s worth it. The portions are really big. If you order a main course, you get also appetizers with it.

I ordered a mint-lemon drink, Musakhan, and Fattoush. It cost 80 shekel. I was really hungry and I couldn’t even finish half of it.

Even the salad called Fattoush is so big and heavy that it would have been enough as the main course.

The main course was delicious but too oily that I couldn’t handle it. I could only eat a quarter of it.

RAMALLAH – #9 BEST PLACE TO VISIT IN PALESTINE

Your Palestine itinerary is not complete with visiting Ramallah.

HOW TO GET TO RAMALLAH FROM NABLUS

You can take the shared taxi either from the station located in the city center but it’s not the best idea.

There is a big station where the buses start. The shared taxi for Ramallah will be full already when it reaches that station so it’s better to take the shared taxi from the starting point. You can ask for directions on your way there. I asked a guy on the street and I was so lucky that he actually walked me there.

Shared taxi from Nablus to Ramallah: 17 shekel

BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN RAMALLAH

Yasser Arafat Museum and Mausoleum

In the museum, you learn about the life and political engagement of Yasser Arafat, former Palestinian leader and symbol of the Palestinian struggle for liberation.

Yasser Arafat Museum and Mausoleum entrance fee: 5 shekel

RAMALLAH INSIDER TIP

Always know where you are going to. When I was at the Museum, I asked the security guys at the entrance where the bus station is. They couldn’t tell me. I knew that it was close but I didn’t remember how close it was.

I was tired. So, I decided to take a taxi.

I asked taxi drivers but they all said it was very far and they quoted 30-40 for the ride. So, I felt there that these drivers tried to scam me.

In the end, with a driver, I negotiated it for 15 shekel. He was driving slowly and took a detour even though to get to the station you just have to drive straight.

This is the only time I experienced scamming during my last trip. I was arguing with him saying: “Come on, you took a detour even though it was a straight route!”

I could have walked. It’s only a 10-minute walk.

JENIN – #10 BEST PLACE TO VISIT IN PALESTINE

Jenin is the northernmost city in the West Bank.

I actually haven’t been here. But I have heard a lot about Jenin from my friends. That’s why I really wanted to explore the city and it definitely deserves a spot on the best places to visit in the Palestine bucketlist.

A couple of days before I wanted to visit Jenin, the Palestinian journalist, Abu Akleh was killed in the Jenin Refugee Camp.

For this reason, instead of traveling to Jenin, I stayed longer in Nablus. But when I’m in Palestine next time, I’ll definitely explore Jenin as well.

Some of the things you must try in Palestine are fast food and some of them proper meals. You can get fast food such as shawarma and falafel anywhere randomly. Thus, you will find them without searching for them.

However, when it comes to trying proper Palestinian dishes, you have to go the extra mile. It’s because good restaurants are mostly not close to historic landmarks.

1. KNAFEH – super sweet cheese pastry

It’s a traditional Middle Eastern pastry. It’s a shredded pastry with cheese caramelized in honey syrup. It has different variants even in Greece, Turkey, and the Balkans.

The most famous Knafeh in the Middle East; however, is the Knafeh Nabulsiyeh that you can try in the city of Nablus.

2. MANAKESH – ZA’ATAR BREAD

It’s actually a very popular Levantine food. It’s flatbread topped with za’atar (spice mixture composed of thyme, oregano, marjoram, toasted sesame seeds, salt, and sumac).

I have normally seen them on the street in the markets.

3. MUSAKAHAN

It’s also called muhammar which is a traditional Palestinian dish. It consists of roasted chicken baked with onions, allspice, sumac, saffron, fried pine nuts, and it’s served on a taboon bread which is a type of Levantine flatbread.

You can also find this meal in Syria, Jordan, and Lebanon.

4. MAQLUBA

It’s a traditional Palestinian dish. But it is also one of the most popular dishes in Iraq, Jordan, Lebanon, and Syria.

Maqluba means upside-down. It got its name from the way It’s made from meat, rice, and fried vegetables which are all put in a pot and flipped upside down right before serving it.

You can also order it without meat.

5. FALAFEL

It’s also a very typical Middle Eastern dish. I tried it many times in Egypt, Iraq, Jordan, Syria, Lebanon, and of course in Palestine.

In Palestine, I ate the best falafel in Hebron somewhere in the market. The ones that you can get on the street are normally served in a pita. But in restaurants, you can have falafel on a plate.

The falafel itself which is made from ground chickpeas is served with pickled veggies, salads, and different types of sauces such as hot sauce or tahini sauce.

6. QEDRA (aka QIDREH or KIDRA)

Qidreh is a traditional Palestinian dish originally from the city of Hebron. It’s made from meat (lamb or chicken), chickpeas, and rice. They are all cooked together and mixed with spices including allspice, cumin, cardamom, turmeric, and black pepper.

It’s very delicious served with yogurt sauce and salad.

7. MANSAF

Mansaf, which means large tray or dish, is a very famous traditional Arab food. It’s made of lamb which is cooked in a sauce of fermented dried yogurt and you can eat it either with rice or bulgur.

Just like many of the popular dishes in Palestine, this one is also a local favorite in many Arab countries such as Jordan, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, and Syria.

8. MAKDOUS

Makdous is a traditional dish made from baby eggplants stuffed with walnuts, garlic, red peppers, olive oil, and salt.

It’s a traditional Palestinian dish. But again not only in Palestine but it’s also traditional in Iraq and the Levant (Jordan, Lebanon, Syria).

9. HUMMUS

Hummus (aka houmous) is a dip popular all over the Middle East. It consists of cooked, mashed chickpeas blended with whole chickpeas, tahini, garlic and lemon juice. It’s garnished with olive oil, parsley, and paprika.

In Palestine, you can order or get it as an appetizer.

What I mean by getting it as an appetizer is that when you order a main dish in a restaurant, you normally get several appetizers before the main dish is served. One do them is generally hummus.

You can find hummus in every restaurant in Palestine.

10. LABNEH

Labneh is strained yoghurt, a kind of yoghurt with thick consistency. It has a very unique sour taste. It’s one of the most favorite things to eat in the Levant and it is a must try in Palestine.

In spite of the fact that Palestinians are mostly Muslims, Palestinian law permits the production, sale, and consumption of alcohol.

However, every city is different when it comes to alcohol.

In Hebron which is the most conservative city in Palestine, it’s not allowed to make, sell or drink alcohol.

However, in Bethlehem or Ramallah, pretty much in every single shop and restaurant you can buy alcohol.

So, you can buy and drink alcohol in many places but you cannot drink in public. That means you can consume alcohol in cafés, restaurants, bars, and at home, and not in parks or on the street.

Beer and wine production are extremely popular and have a long history in Palestine.

Palestine has many wineries and three microbreweries: Birzeit Brewery, Taybeh Brewery, and the Wise Men Choice Brewery. You can also visit them.

You will find hotels for all budgets and even hostels in most major cities in Palestine.

Let me share with you my top picks.

WHERE TO STAY IN JERUSALEM

LUXURY – CHAIN GATE HOSTEL

MID-RANGE – WALDORF ASTORIA JERUSALEM

BUDGET – MAMILLA HOTEL

WHERE TO STAY IN BETHLEHEM

LUXURY – THE WALLED OFF HOTEL

MID-RANGE – MA’AN LIL-HAYAT BOUTIQUE HOTEL

BUDGET – BETHLEHEM CITY HOSTEL

WHERE TO STAY IN HEBRON

MID-RANGE – REGENCY HOTEL HEBRON

BUDGET – HEBRON HOPE GUEST HOUSE

WHERE TO STAY IN JERICHO

MID-RANGE – VERONA VILLA JERICHO

BUDGET – AUBERG-INN GUESTHOUSE

WHERE TO STAY IN NABLUS

MID-RANGE – HAYAT GUEST HOUSE

BUDGET – TURQUOISE

WHERE TO STAY IN RAMALLAH

MID-RANGE – AL-BIREH LUX SUITES

BUDGET – ECO HOSTEL

You can travel to Palestine both independently and using a travel agency. Moreover, you can mix independent travel with tours.

FULLY INDEPENDENT TRAVEL IN THE WEST BANK

I personally find traveling in West Bank independently very easy. To me, traveling in the West Bank is the same as in most countries in the Middle East and North Africa.

Thus, if you have experience with traveling independently in the Middle East and/or North Africa, you’ll be fine.

As an independent traveler, you can travel by car or using public transport.

Without any independent travel experience in these regions, I would still give it a try. With the help of this guide, I’m sure, you manage to organize your trip.

If you have your own car, you can travel more hassle-free and you can cover more places than with public transport.

However, using public transport means you need much more time to visit places than driving your own car.

INDEPENDENT TRAVEL MIXED WITH TOURS IN THE WEST BANK

Even as an independent traveler you can join tours, especially if you have a limited amount of time available.

The two biggest advantages that tours in the West Bank have are being able to cover several locations in one day and learning about the places you visit in detail from a local travel guide.

This is also why I dedicated an entire part to tours available in the West Bank.

PALESTINE TOURS

Tours in Palestine are very common. If you prefer traveling with a group, you don’t have time to organize your trip or/and you want to learn in detail about the places you visit, you can look for a tour company to visit Palestine.

I have been to Palestine several times but last time was the first time when I traveled there solo. It was also my first time using public transport.

Traveling solo and completely relying on public transport was an amazing experience.

As a woman, a solo female traveler, traveling in the West Bank I always felt completely safe without any sort of safety concerns.

12-DAY PALESTINE ITINERARY

I prepared this itinerary based on my last trip to Palestine. You can make this plan also in 10 days as an independent traveler using public transport.

If you have a car, you can easily make it in 7 – 8 days.

DAY 0: Arrival in Tel Aviv, travel to Jerusalem – stay in Jerusalem
DAY 1: Jerusalem – full day sightseeing in Jerusalem – stay in Jerusalem
DAY 2: Jerusalem – full day sightseeing in Jerusalem – stay in Jerusalem
DAY 3: Travel to Bethlehem, sightseeing in Bethlehem – stay in Bethlehem
DAY 4: Half-day trip to Mar Saba Monastery – stay in Bethlehem
DAY 5: Day trip to Hebron, travel to Jericho – stay in Jericho
DAY 6: Half-day trip to Nabi Musa – stay in Jericho
DAY 7: Half-day trip: Hiking to St. Georges Monastery in Wadi Qelt – stay in Jericho
DAY 8: Hiking to the Mount of Temptation and visiting Hisham Palace – stay  in Jericho
DAY 9: Travel to Nablus, sightseeing in Nablus – stay in Nablus
DAY 10: Sightseeing in Nablus – stay in Nablus
Day 11: Day trip to Jenin, sightseeing in Jenin – stay in Nablus
Day 12: Travel to Ramallah, sightseeing in Ramallah – stay in Jerusalem
DAY 13: DAY 11: Travel back to Tel Aviv

ISRAELI VS. PALESTINIAN SIM CARDS

I’ll shortly compare Israeli and Palestinian prepaid SIM card providers. Then, I’ll give you my recommendation for both.

– In Palestine, you can use both Israeli and Palestinian SIM cards.

If you buy an Israeli prepaid SIM card, you can use them both in Israel and Palestine. But if you buy a Palestinian SIM card, you can only use it in Palestine.

– Israeli mobile network providers are more expensive than Palestinian mobile network providers.

– Israeli providers are supposed to have better coverage than Palestinian providers and faster internet.

Even Palestinians in the West Bank use Israeli SIM cards.

ISRAELI PREPAID SIM CARDS

ISRAELI PREPAID SIM CARD AT THE BEN GURION AIPORT

As you already know, I bought my prepaid SIM card at the airport from the company called 019.

019 is an Israeli internet provider that only sells expensive packages at the airport with unlimited international calls.

It’s too expensive for what you get as the coverage and the speed of the internet were mostly really bad almost everywhere in the West Bank.
If I traveled to Palestine again, I would buy a sim card from another operator. Unless, you are desperate to get a SIM card at the airport, don’t buy this one.

019 SIM CARD PRICES AT THE BEN GURION AIPORT

8 days package with 10 GB data: 171 ILS (51 USD)
8 days package with unlimited GB data: 205 ILS (61 USD)

20 days package with 2 GB data: 186 ILS (55 USD)
20 days package with 20 GB data: 269 ILS (80 USD)
20 days package with unlimited GB data: 285 ILS (85 USD)

35 days package with 5 GB data: 269 ILS (80 USD)
35 days package with 30 GB data: 376 ILS (112 USD)
35 days package with unlimited GB data: 414 ILS (123 USD)

ISRAELI PREPAID SIM CARDS OUTSIDE THE AIRPORT

There are many Israeli mobile network operators: Pelephone, Hot Mobile, Partner, Cellcom Israel/Golan Telecom, 012 and 019.

After traveling in the West Bank using 019, all I can say is that if you choose to buy an Israeli SIM card, go for one of the best operators. You don’t want to get annoyed because you have no coverage in many places or because of slow internet.

PELEPHONE PREPAID SIM CARD

Pelephone provides 5G.

Pelephone data packages including unlimited use of apps such as Instagram and Facebook valid for 30 days:

50 GB – 70 ILS (21 USD)
200 GB: 150 ILS (44 USD)

Pelephone 100 GB with unlimited usage of apps such as Instagram and Facebook and unlimited minutes and text: 59 ISL (18 USD)

As you see, if we compare the prices from the biggest Israeli mobile network operator with the amount 019 charges at the airport, you will see how ridiculous the prices of 019 are.

More information on the different packages provided by Pelephone, here.

PALESTINIAN PREPAID SIM CARDS

Palestine has two mobile network providers: Jawwal and Ooredoo. They are much cheaper than the previously mentioned Israeli provider.

Jawwal is the biggest Palestinian mobile network operator, they have the fastest Palestinian 3G and it has better coverage than Ooredoo.

So, if you want to buy a prepaid Palestinian SIM card, go for Jawwal.

If you check out its prices, you will see that if you look for a place to buy a prepaid SIM card outside the airport in the West Bank, you will save a lot of money.

Jawwal data package prices:

2 GB: 18 ILS (~ 5.50 USD)
3 GB: 25 ILS (~ 7.50 USD)
10 GB: 45 ILS (~ 13.50 USD)
20 GB: 60 ILS (~ 18 USD)
45 GB: 80 ILS (~ 24 USD)

More information on the packages offered by Jawwal, here.

OFFICIAL CURRENCY OF PALESTINE

Today, since 1948, the official currency of Palestine, including the West Bank and Gaza Strip, is the Israeli New Shekel.

Before that, from 1920 to 1948, the official currency of Palestine was the Palestinian pound.

The sign of the Israeli shekel is ₪. The currency code is either NIS or ILS.

1 US dollar equals 3.35 shekel.

ATMs IN THE WEST BANK

There are a lot of ATMs in the West Bank.

Normally, you can easily find many ATMs in the central areas of every city. I withdrew money a couple of times there and I never had any issue.

I always used my ING DiBa credit card from Germany in the West Bank. The transaction fee was around 12-14 shekel (~ 4 USD) each time I sed an ATM.

In Palestine, most places only accept cash. Thus, it’s better not to rely on card payments at all.

In Jerusalem, I tried to pay for the train ticket and the tram tickets using the ticket machines. The payment was made but I never got a ticket. It happened to me 3 times and then I just decided not to pay anywhere by credit card.

I’m not saying you should not do it either. But I definitely do not recommend using your credit card for buying tickets from ticket machines.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN THE WEST BANK

Traveling in the West Bank from one city to another by shared taxis and buses:

To get from one city to another city or monastery I only used shared taxis and buses except once.
I spent 43.30 USD on public transport in 10 days traveling every day.

You find the detailed breakdown in the How to Get around in Palestine section.

PRIVATE TAXIS IN THE WEST BANK

Generally, a ride costs between 10-15 shekel (3-5 USD). Sometimes, for longer distances, I paid 20 shekel (6 USD).

I only needed private taxis in Jericho and in Nablus. I used a private taxi around 8 times and in total it didn’t cost more than 35 USD.

ENTRANCE FEES IN THE WEST BANK

There are only a couple of places where you pay an entrance fee.
– Yasser Arafat Museum and Mausoleum entrance fee: 5 shekel (1.50 USD)
– Samaritan Museum in Kiryat Luza including guiding: 25 shekel (7.50 USD)
– Hisham Palace in Jericho: 10 shekel (3 USD)

ACCOMMODATION IN THE WEST BANK

Hostels start at around 17 USD.
That means you need a minimum of 170 € for 10 days.

FOOD AND RESTAURANTS  IN THE WEST BANK

As every city in the West Bank has different prices when it comes to food and eating out, please refer to the best places to visit in the Palestine section of this article to find out about the costs of food and eating out in each city.

HOW MUCH I SPENT IN 10 DAYS IN THE WEST BANK

Checking my bank account, I withdrew 600 USD during my trip to Palestine. Thus, I would say, as a backpacker like me, you can calculate at least this much money for 10 days.

I don’t know where all my money went as I didn’t track every single penny.

Public transport: ~ 43 USD
Private taxis: ~ 35 USD
Hostels: ~ 200 USD
Entrance fees: ~12 USD

Just this is about 300 €. I believe the rest I spent on restaurants, buying food, sweets, and souvenirs.